Fez With Kids: 10 Things We Did in the Medina (With a 4- and 1-Year-Old)

Our Fez guided tours were hosted by Viajes Marrakech. Opinions, and the stroller struggles, are our own.

In June 2017 we took our two boys to Fez: Damian was 4 and Marc was 1, still in the stroller. Fez’s medina is a 1,200-year-old maze of alleys too narrow for cars, with steps where you least expect them. It’s one of the most overwhelming, beautiful places we’ve been with kids. Here’s what we did, what worked with a toddler, and what I’d change.

Quick answers

• Is Fez OK with small kids? Yes, with a guide and a riad inside the medina. Without a guide you will get lost.
• Stroller or carrier? Carrier. Our stroller couldn’t manage the steps, and we missed going into the Kairaouine because of it.
• Must-dos: the Chouara tanneries, Al Attarine madrasa and Bab Boujloud.
• Tickets: the madrasas are about 20 MAD (~€2) each.

1. Walk the medina with a guide (it’s worth it)

Fez el-Bali, the old medina, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a genuine labyrinth: houses with almost no windows, donkeys carrying gas bottles, smells changing every ten metres. Our guide Chaima, from Viajes Marrakech, was patient in a way you only appreciate with a toddler. She waited at every stop while we took photos, folded the stroller, and carried it up steps. I’ve worked in travel for 14 years, and I’d still never do this medina without one.

2. Bab Boujloud, the Blue Gate

The main gate into the old city: blue tiles on one side, green on the other. It’s the classic photo, and it’s where most guided walks start.

3. The Chouara tanneries (yes, with kids)

Leather has been dyed here in stone vats the same way for centuries. The boys hated the smell. To be fair, it was milder than the reviews had warned us. We loved watching the workers. Go in the morning, and take the mint sprig the shops hand you at the door.

4. Al Attarine Madrasa

A 14th-century school built as an annex to the Kairaouine, covered in cedar carving, plaster lace and mosaic. It’s small, so you see it in 15 minutes, which is perfect with a toddler. Entry is about 20 MAD.

5. Madrasa Bou Inania

A green-tiled minaret, marble columns and some of the finest plasterwork in Morocco. In 2017 we only saw it from outside. Today visitors can go into the courtyard for about 20 MAD.

6. The Kairaouine Mosque and University

It’s often called the oldest university in the world. Non-Muslims can only look in from the doorway, and with all the steps and the stroller, we didn’t even manage that properly. This was the moment I wished we’d brought a carrier.

7. A craftsmen’s workshop

We watched a craftsman make a silver plate by hand, hammering each pattern in one strike at a time. The boys were glued to it. It’s the best “shopping stop” for kids, because there’s something to watch.

8. Try on traditional clothes

A clothing shop let us try on djellabas and kaftans. Half the fun was the boys laughing at us.

9. Get a henna tattoo

I had mine done by a member of staff at our riad while we waited for the airport transfer. It lasted more than three weeks.

10. Sleep in a riad inside the medina

A riad is a traditional house built around an inner courtyard. From the alley you see a blank wall and a door, and inside it’s tiles, a fountain and silence. Ours was Riad Borj Dhab. With small kids, choosing the right riad matters more than any sight (see below).

Is a guide worth it in Fez with kids?

Yes. Fez is the one city where I’d say that without hesitation. The medina has thousands of alleys and no grid, and “helpful” strangers will offer to guide you and then expect payment. A booked guide removes all of that. With a stroller, they also know which routes have the fewest steps.

Where to stay in Fez with kids

Stay inside the medina, close to a taxi drop-off: ours was 50 m away, and staff met us there. Or, in summer, stay outside it in a hotel with a pool. The full comparison of riads and hotels, areas and our picks is in where to stay in Fez with kids.

Day trip from Fez

Our second day was Volubilis, Moulay Idriss and Meknes, at 40°C.

Morocco with a baby and a preschooler, including our Marrakech trip: Morocco with toddlers: what worked.

Planning Fez? See riads in the Fez medina →

Fez with kids: FAQ

Is Fez a good city to visit with kids?

Yes, with a guide and a riad inside the medina. We visited in June 2017 with a 4-year-old and a 1-year-old.

Can you use a stroller in the Fez medina?

Only partly. Many alleys have steps, and ours kept us out of the Kairaouine. A baby carrier works much better.

Are the Chouara tanneries OK for children?

Yes, but kids may hate the smell. Ours did, though it was milder than reviews suggested. Go in the morning.

Do you need a guide in the Fez medina?

We strongly recommend one. The medina is a maze without a grid, and a guide also knows routes with fewer steps for strollers.

How much do the madrasas in Fez cost?

Al Attarine and Bou Inania charge about 20 MAD (around €2) each. Check on the day, because prices change.

Pin it